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Cover: Founding Flavors

Recipes with Butter

12Oct 12

Puff Pastry: A Work in Progress

Puff pastry is a light, flaky dough that can be used for a variety of savory or sweet treats.  For my first attempt at making this dough, I used a more traditional recipe that called for an equal ratio of bread flour to butter.  While I knew I’d be using a lot of butter, the reality of just how much butter is used in the production of puff pastry hit me as I formed a 20 tablespoons block of butter worth 2,000 calories!  Even though I really, really wanted to reduce the amount of butter, I stuck to the exact ingredients because I wanted to see how the final product would turn out as it was originally intended.

What followed was a lengthy process of rolling out the dough, creating a single turn (folding the dough similar to a letter before it is inserted in an envelope), and letting the puff pastry rest in the refrigerator for half an hour before repeating the process four more times.  Two hours later, the dough was finally ready to be baked. The good news was that it only needed ten minutes in the oven. While I considered the presentation of the final result to be a success, I had issues with the taste. The puff pastry was not bad at first but, immediately after a few bites, I could feel the residual butter on my lips. I don’t know about you but there is nothing worse than feeling disgusting after you consume something. It doesn’t matter how delicious the item might be, it is just not worth it. And, that is exactly the way I felt about my puff pastry.

Instead of shunning puff pastry for life, I started thinking about how I was going to recreate the dough so that it maintained its flaky texture but did not make me feel like I had to run five miles on the treadmill. After doing some research, I decided to try making the puff pastry again using roughly 40 percent of the butter originally called for in the recipe. But, as I rolled out the dough, I could already tell that the product was not going to turn out that great because the consistency was tough and rubbery.  This time, I had gone to the opposite extreme and used too little fat.

Frustrated but determined to find a solution, I decided to think through my ingredients. For starters, I knew I needed to add a little more butter. But since I was deciding to opt for 1 part butter to 2 parts flour, I decided to switch out the bread flour for all-purpose flour because it has a lower percentage of proteins, which means that the dough will not be as glutinous and, consequently, be able to rise more easily. Since I’d already had two unsuccessful attempts at puff pastry, I found myself feeling fearless and decided to add some unrefined brown sugar and vanilla extract.  I know, I know, it sounds super risky and dangerous. So after rolling, turning, folding, and letting the puff pastry do its thing, the moment of truth was 400°F and 10 minutes away.

While I won’t necessarily say that the third time is a charm, I will say that it is definitely the path to improvement. The result was a flaky consistency on top and a chewier texture in the middle. I happened to like it, especially with fifty percent less butter and no residual fat on my lips!  Since it is still a work in progress, please let me know your thoughts on the puff pastry recipe I’ve provided below.



Puff Pastry: A Work in Progress
Recipe type: Dough
  • All-purpose flour: 1¼ cup
  • Salt: ¾ teaspoon
  • Unrefined brown sugar: 1 teaspoon
  • Unsalted butter: 10 tablespoons
  • Vanilla extract: 1 tablespoon
  • Water: ½ cup
  1. In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, 2 tablespoons of melted butter, salt, vanilla extract, and water until it beings so form into dough.
  2. Roll the dough into a ball. Add a small amount of water, if necessary.
  3. Cover the dough and refrigerate for 30 minutes
  4. Take the remaining butter, which should be soft, and mix in the sugar. You should be able to form the butter and sugar into a 3x3 inch square block.
  5. Refrigerate the butter block for 15 minutes.
  6. Use a rolling pin to roll out the dough into an 8x8 inch square.
  7. Place the butter block on top of the dough square and then flap the outer edges of the dough over the butter block to make a smaller square of dough with the butter tucked inside.
  8. Use your rolling pin to roll out the dough into a 10-inch wide rectangle.
  9. Make one single turn, cover the dough with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the dough for 20 minutes. To create a single turn, fold the dough similar to a letter before it is inserted in an envelope
  10. Repeat step 8-9 three more times.
  11. After fourth single turn, let the dough sit in the refrigerator for at least two hours.
  12. Pre-heat the oven to 400°F.
  13. Depending on what you are using the puff pastry for, shape the dough and bake for 10 minutes.

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10Oct 12

Viva la Lard!

Bread flour, cake flour, lard, eggs, butter…wait… LARD!?  That was my brain processing the ingredients listed to make a type of pie dough known as Pate Brisee.  And, while I kept reading through the recipe, all I kept thinking about was this sinful, dirty, little, four letter word that made me feel like my jeans were getting snugger by the minute just by looking at it on the page.  Why LARD?  This is the year 2012 for heaven’s sake!!!  Isn’t there some sort of organically infused substitute!?

And so the internet searching began as I frantically looked up substitutes for lard.  But, as I kept reading I found some interesting tidbits regarding the use of lard in baking.  Most surprisingly to me was that lard is actually not as bad as I had originally thought!  That’s right, in fact, when compared to butter it actually contains less saturated fat and cholesterol.  And, for those who cannot consume lard for dietary or religious reasons, one could use a beef equivalent known as tallow.  Aaaamazing!

So, I decided to put my snobbery blobbery aside and venture off to the grocery store to buy some lard.  There was vegetable shortening, margarine, butter, but I could not find lard, at least not the non-hydrogenated kind, which is suppose to be healthier because it is free of trans fats.  Sad and lardless, I returned home and decided to attempt to make pate brisee sans the lard and instead only use butter.  For the filling, I cooked golden delicious apple slices in sugar, cinnamon, and cognac.  The result was very tasty and the pie crust was light but I couldn’t help thinking about the lard and the effect it could have had on my baking.  Where was it now?  Had someone else found it and taken it home?  And so I did what any other individual living in the twenty-first century would do.  I found a gourmet shop online to sell me what has been booed and shunned for so many years and managed to pay a premium price!  As soon as it arrives, I’ll be sure to try it out and let you know how much of a difference it really makes.

As an aside, during my searching I found a useful link on the King Arthur’s Flour website that breaks down the various fats (butter, margarine, shortening…and, yes, lard).  I found it to be a particularly interesting and comprehensive read and want to highlight it for you:  http://www.kingarthurflour.com/recipe/fats.html


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